Marie Lichtenberg's Bonheur clasp on a charm necklace

Did you ever see a jewelry designer’s work and connect to it on every level—emotionally, artistically, feeling that you shared a common link? As a jewelry journalist and author, I can appreciate a diverse range of modern designers and antique dealers on different levels. And then there are jewels and their makers whom I connect with on a level that somehow speaks to my soul. When a friend and designer Susan Cohen of Circa 1700 introduced me to French designer Marie Lichtenberg via DM on Instagram , this happened almost instantaneously. There is something about the joy in what she is creating, the nod to vintage and antique jewels without being redundant and the uncompromising focus of her collection that hit an emotional cord.

Marie Lichtenberg's English and Fresh sayings on three dimensional clasps inspired by antique jewelry

Marie Lichtenberg's English and French words and sayings on three-dimensional clasps inspired by ... [+] antique jewelry

Only when I began to interview her did I find we had some similarities in our backgrounds (albeit on different sides of the Atlantic) which could account for some the pull I felt to this collection. Marie was born, raised and has always lived in Paris and I, in New York or the New York area. Marie and I both started our careers as fashion stylists for print magazines. She had a mom in the antiques/vintage jewelry business and I had a mentor whom I worked for in the business and mom and dad in fashion and textiles respectively. We were both brought up around color, texture and lively talk about style vs. fashion. We both wore plastic heart pendants and star stickers as earrings as young girls. I loved when she told me this. It made me feel like I had that French je nais se quois at seven years-old. We both turned to designing jewelry after we realized that fashion had become somewhat of a machine rather than a creative endeavor and we both started with an idea rather than a business plan.

Luckily I was also a writer who never gave that part of myself up and continued to write when the jewelry business started to change in the late 1990s. But enough about my career. Marie Lichtenberg has designed a collection of artfully detailed, joyful and lyrical clasps that all began with one necklace her mother owned. She then turned it into a collection of her ‘favorite things’—sayings, color combinations and motifs—that all seem to fit together as a collection that relies on imagination and a gut instinct to which international women have and will continue to relate.

Marie Lichtenberg's Amour clasps worn on necklaces around her wrist.

Marie Lichtenberg's Amour clasps worn on necklaces around her wrist

Twistonline.com who carries her collection in the states sold out quicker than most women who found her on Instagram could order it. Don’t fret, they will be receiving a new order. And her roster of U.S. clients is growing at the pace she has determined it should grow—a pace which will keep her in business for a long time to come.

I interviewed Marie virtually via Zoom and of course, she is the quintessential French woman who is chic, beautiful and as equally hopeful and effervescent as her collection of locks and charms inspired by India, antique English and French locks and clasps and the jewelry of the West Indies.

While most young girls love jewelry was there a specific style or influence that inspired you when you were young?

“My mother was and definitely still is my inspiration She use to collect vintage jewelry . She was artistic director in advertising but when I was growing up she  use to have a small vintage jewelry shop in the 90´s . This shop was her ‘just for fun’ jewelry obsession and I used to spend hours in the shop going through all of the pieces.”

What was your first career?

“I am a former fashion editor for ELLE France . I learned so much over my 12 years of producing fashion shoots and I am really grateful for my time spent in fashion and editoral.”

Can you talk a little about that time of your life? What you liked best about your position there and how/why you decided to leave? 

I had the best time working for ELLE, I loved the travel  and working with the amazing photographers and designers. It was a truly a fun experience for most of the years that I was there and it helped shaped my tastes and taught me so much. But at some point I needed to really do something by myself and for myself . Fashion became a machine. Print magazines were not the same as they were when I first started. The energy and the passion that I felt for so long faded and I wasn’t as motivated. I wanted to do something I loved again, to start something new and get out of my comfort zone.”

Did you know right away that you wanted to design jewelry?

“I take after my mother in the way that jewelry was always a passion of mine but I first tried my hand at designing a line of clothing. I have strong tastes when it comes to textures and tones but eventually I realized that I should channel this into my love for jewelry.”

When did you design you first jewelry collection and what did it consist of?

“I created a small earrings collection in 2010 , but I was not ready at this time. I was playing around to see what would best and it wasn’t until I went to India in 2019 that the jewelry started to come together.”

Is this when you launched the collection?

I didn’t really launched a collection per se.  I returned from my Indian trip with few pieces including the Bonheur and the Love lock, both which were intricately detailed and accented with gemstones and engraving.  I posted the love locket on my Instagram on the January 17 2019. I sold 40 pieces in 48 hours. I was in shock. I was just starting; had nothing was formulated. There was no business plan , no website, no team. No office. Nothing . Only my beloved workshop and my ideas. Now I have a staff of six people working together  and we have more than 140 pieces , including locks/clasps , chains , threads , earrings and rings.

Marie Lichtenberg 'I love you to the moon and back' clasp

-What was the inspiration for the first pieces?

“All came from my favorite necklace that I received from my mother for my 14th birthday. This necklace was a big hollow gold link chain which closed with a three dimensional lantern shaped clasp . This is a very special piece of jewelry for us . My mother family is from Martinique ( French Indies) This type of necklace is one of the most famous creole piece of jewelry.

The idea of designing a similar clasp on a chain or a cord  was created to commemorate the handed down quality of jewelry and to also bring something positive and full of love in the contemporary design.  I wanted to create a heirloom type of collection and thought of my own daughter and giving her something which has emotion and significance—pieces that mothers like me  would want to give their daughters and pass down through  future generations.”

Can you give a little insight into the other inspirations for the collection?

As I mentioned, this is a passion project for me—I find inspiration in so many different things, In the colors and the beautiful enameling from India, the French and English sentimental words,  pop art from the 70s , vintage jewelry that I remember from my  mom’s shop and safe. My taste doesn’t seem to change so everything I love is the still the same as what I loved 10 years ago. In essence, I just put everything to what I am drawn, excites and makes me feel joy into  the collection and go with what feels intiutive.  By designing this way, I hope that other women will feel the same as I do about the pieces, that they will find the same happiness in the meanings, motifs, color mixes, sometimes which are offbeat but have wound up as some of our best sellers.”

Marie Lichtenberg's range of colorful enamel three-dimensional clasps- from love to protection is represented in these styles.

Marie Lichtenberg's range of colorful enamel three-dimensional clasps- from love to protection is ... [+] represented in these styles.

Let’s talk about the meanings and why you chose the sayings, symbols and color and color combinations within the collection?

“The enamel colors were inspired by India and the West Indies as well as my own juxtaposition of hues you wouldn’t think of working together but ultimately do. I opted for an uplifting colored palette. I think we all need a piece of jewelry that will make us feel protected or lucky or anything we need to make us feel good.  I don’t consider myself superstitious, but yet  I feel better wearing my ‘watchful eye clasp’ and my love lock. I truly believe that there are many words that have kind of magical  powers: French and English words such as  Love , Toujours , Bonheur , Protection , as well sayings with very precious meanings such as ‘I love you to the moon and back’ and many other powerful yet simple mottos.

Marie Lichtenberg's "Watchful Eye" enamel and gemstone clasp.

Marie Lichtenberg's "Watchful Eye" enamel and gemstone clasp.

How do you see your pieces worn?

 “Irreverently with a twist. I wanted to de-standardize jewelry so that you don't find it everywhere—to take something familar and create something new with it, something different yet with soul and not trend driven or fashionable. I would like my customers to think of my pieces like would antique jewelry—and wear them with a sense of style that is much more lasting than any trend could be. I also can see them worn minimally -one at a time or you can go crazy layering them. I get so excited when women tell me, it’s become part of them and that ‘They just can’t take my pieces off.”

Messy layered neck creates a nonchalance chic at Marie Lichtenberg.

Messy Layered neck creates a nonchalance chic at Marie Lichtenberg

Marie Lichtenberg wearing her own jewelry.

Marie Lichtenberg wearing her own jewelry